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POPSTROKE

BarTenders Eatery

Reuben
Dog

Corned beef, sauerkraut and Spicy Thousand Island

Ten o'clock on a Friday night. The lights over the course humming, the greens gone silver, a crowd on the patio loud enough to drown out a marching band.

I was playing alone. Hole 14, a two-tier green, the cup tucked on the top shelf like a cookie jar a child isn't supposed to reach. I left my first putt short, and it rolled back down to my feet in slow, humiliating fashion.

A stranger on the next hole saw it. He said, kindly, "Firmer." Then he said, "Have you had the Reuben Dog?" I had not. I finished the round in a hurry, found a stool at the bar, and within minutes, I had.

A char-grilled Gleezy Dog on a poppy seed bun, which is a fine beginning. Then warm corned beef, piled on in ribbons. Then sauerkraut, sharp and bright, cutting through everything like good advice from a playing partner. And over the top, the signature Spicy Thousand Island, creamy, a little pink, with a heat that arrives late and stays for the encore.

It was a Reuben sandwich at a deli counter in New York. It was a ballpark in July. It was a hot dog that had read a few books.

Then I went back out for another round. On 14, I hit it firmer. It climbed the tier, wobbled at the edge and dropped.

I looked around for the stranger to thank him. He was gone, like all the best advisors, leaving only a crumpled napkin and the faint memory of corned beef.

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